Suburban Culinary Tour, Part I

Ozark: Slightly generic name, surprisingly tasty cuisine

Much of the chutzpah of the Ozarks comes from the smaller towns—the ones where high school football rules and city PR staffs don’t exist. And one thing’s for sure: Small towns have some good eatin’.

First up in this semi-occasional series: Ozark. Your guide is GO editor (and Ozark native) Matt Lemmon.

Riverside Inn

All discussions of Ozark dining begin with this prohibition-era speakeasy by the Finley River. Known for its fried chicken and Chateau Brion, Riverside is especially popular during its Easter and Mother’s Day buffets. Riverside is at its best, however, when it’s operating as a true restaurant. Eat a fine dinner and then take a stroll on the patio. “Hey, isn’t that Ned Reynolds’s house?” “Why, yes. It is.” 2629 N. Riverside Rd., 417-581-7051

Spring Creek Tea Room

Confession time: When I was working in Ozark several years ago, I let the ladies in my office talk me into ordering Spring Creek’s strawberry salad. It’s as in-touch as I’ve ever been with my feminine side—it was that good. Spring Creek is a bit of a phenomenon; it’s tiny, and luncheon groups often spar for space. Get there early and hang out in the adjacent antique shop until Spring Creek opens at 11 a.m. 107 S. Third St., 417-582-1331

Angeli’s

People in the know tell us this newish Mediterranean/Italian/American joint (across from Lambert’s) is a darn fine place to eat. It’s quite exciting: Ten years ago if you’d said you were opening a “Mediterranean” restaurant in O-Town, you’d have been laughed at. 1759 W. State Highway J, 417-582-1985, angeli-restaurant.com

Brick House Bistro

The coolest thing about Brick House (besides the sandwiches, of course) is that the space, up until two years ago, housed the city’s entire police department. A pleasant outdoor dining area is only a block from the historic square, where there’s plenty of quaint shopping. 206 N. First St., 417-581-3501

Golden Dragon

Okay, there’s no way any foodie would put this Chinese joint in their top five Ozark culinary experiences, but we didn’t ask a foodie to write this story. The GD is probably the place I’ve eaten the most meals in my lifetime. Order the Dok Gui—a barbecued Korean beef—without MSG, with an egg roll on the side. Highway NN and Highway 14, 417-581-3505