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Print this page2-Minute Review: Wing Shack
Hunkering down for a basket o' wings at the Wing Shack.
The Wing Shack Grill & Bar’s menu bills itself as a place for “great food and fun.” But is it? I recently dropped by the former Garbo’s spot on South National to check it out.
My dining partner and I figured we couldn’t go to a place called Wing Shack (307 S. National Ave., 417-831-9464) and rate it properly without trying the wings. We split 20 ($13.99) and ordered them half with Original Hot sauce and half with “Buffaque,” a barbecue -Buffalo combo. I liked the Hot more than the Buffaque, though my friend felt the opposite. Next time I go I’ll order something different, like the Lemon Pepper sauce. The wings weren’t the meatiest I’ve ever had, but far from the scrawniest. You could tell they were grilled. The skin was crispy in places, which I liked.
It was our appetizer that most closely approached greatness. It’s hard to make mozzarella sticks an event, but these are. The reason: jalapeños and red pepper rolled into the breading, making them unavoidably spicy. Best part: We got them for free. The kitchen was out of fried green beans, so these were on the house (thanks friendly waitress!).
As for the ambience and “hangout” factor? I’m willing to give Wing Shack some time. The place has been painted in bright colors, inside and out. They’ve added some flat-screens and Caribbean-style music. The real problem: No beer, as of now. Our server couldn’t tell us when they would start serving, but that they would eventually. Until then, Wing Shack is a good—potentially great—lunch spot.
