Two-Minute Review: Riad

Riad's second location brings more taste (and conversation) to the south side.

Typically, while reviewing a restaurant, my main goal is to go unnoticed. After all, it’s only a fair review if I elicit the same level of service any Joe off the street would get. It’s usually easy, but proved impossible at the new Riad (1250 E. Republic Rd., 417-881-7423): I hadn’t been there 10 minutes when owner Riad Matar was at our table, talking about this and that. My cover was blown. But if you’re looking for a sign of consistency between the quality of Riad’s two locations (the original is on Park Central Square), the owner’s enthusiasm for food and conversation is a good sign.

So, too, is the food. I had Riad’s Bistro Wrap, grilled chicken wrapped in soft pita brad with onion, olives, mushrooms, tomato and lettuce, topped with Grey Poupon sauce. The chicken was slightly dry, but the flavors were delicious. My dining companion, 417 Magazine editor Greg Holman, ate the somewhat more adventurous dejage (pictured)—grilled chicken, broccoli, and onion, sautéed with lemon garlic and olive oil—and pronounced it more flavorful than the last time he’d eaten it (Riad said this was due to the use of lemon pepper rather than lemon juice).

The best touch was the look of the place, rich, dark red paint, elegantly apportioned and with a huge, shiny bar at the back of the restaurant (Riad says he’s getting ready to crank up the happy hour promotions). To this point, we pronounce Riad’s suburban adventure a success.