Floating Away

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In Missouri, float trips are a rite of passage—if you’ve never spent a day on one of our approximately eight zillion rivers, you’re not really one of us (there’s a squiggly line denoting a river on our license plate, for crying out loud.) If this describes you, let GO be your somewhat mischievous guide to seven of the area’s most float-worthy rivers. If you’re a veteran river-runner, maybe we’ll show you a place you’ve never been. Either way, you know you’re going to get in that canoe. It’s what we Missourians do.

Photo Jensen Images Hemmed-in Hollow is the tallest waterfall between the Rocky and Appalachian Mountains.

Buffalo National River

It’s hard to get 100 percent of any group in the Ozarks to agree on much of anything—but we think we may have found it. The Buffalo National River, just south of the state line in Arkansas, is perhaps the best float in the Midwest, if not the country. “It’s the absolute jewel of the Ozarks,” says Ed McClung, a member of the local floating group Ozark Mountain Paddlers. Ed should know: Of the 15–20 floats he says he takes every year, about half of them are on the Buffalo. The Buffalo’s history is unique: It was the first so-designated National River in the U.S. and is one of the few in the lower 48 states that remains undammed.

Where to float: For sheer beauty, most Buffalo insiders, including McClung and Erin Hutchison, 28, a MSU student and also a member of Ozark Mountain Paddlers, recommend the 10-plus-mile stretch of Buffalo from Ponca to Kyles Landing. Near Ponca is one of Arkansas’ most amazing natural features—Hemmed-in Hollow, a rock-and-water formation only a mile or so from the river. To find Hemmed-in Hollow, Hutchison says, pull your canoe off to the left side of the river at Sneed Creek. A 1.3 mile trail will take you right to it.

There’s more to do on foot. The Buffalo River Trail follows the river between Ponca and Kyles Landing. Aquaphobes may find this a better way to spend a day in nature. There are beautiful portions of the upper Buffalo, but they’re rarely navigable after early summer, since the Buffalo is a rain-fed river.

Where to camp/rent stuff: Due to its National River designation, all canoe outfitters and shuttle services are contracted by the National Parks Service: But don’t worry, alcohol is still allowed on the river. There are campgrounds at Kyles Landing that Hutchison says can get a little bit rowdy, if that’s your thing. A list of campgrounds and shuttle services can be found at the National Parks Service’s website (nps.org/buff.)

How to get there: Since it’s more than 150 miles long, there are tons places to put in on the Buffalo (the website has a good map).

Get there!   • Springfield to Ponca   • Springfield to Hemmed-in Hollow (not too far from Kyles Landing)

 

The James River

A decade ago the James River had a bit of a murky reputation, mostly due to murky water. The primary waterway between Springfield and Table Rock Lake, the James was a bit of a mess. But that has changed. “It was a lot of effort by a lot of people,” says McClung, with primary credit going to the James River Basin Partnership. That said, it’s still more of a floating river than a swimming river, as are its tributaries (like the Finley River—technically a creek— which flows through Ozark) and wider spots like Lake Springfield. The James’s primary attraction is that it’s super close; you can wake up on a nice Saturday with no plans made and still be in the river by noon.

Where to float: Early in the year (read: right now) you’ll probably find a great float between Shelvin Rock Access (easily found a few miles west of Nixa just off Highway 14) and Hootentown, a seven-mile float. Later in the year your best bet might be to put in at Hootentown and float to Galena. Diane Newman, co-owner of Hootentown Canoe Rental, says the river is a nice mix of fast water and deep holes, where you can fish for smallmouth bass. Newman says the river has gotten a bit of a bum rap. “People still say ‘You don’t want to eat the fish’,” Newman says. “And that’s not right.”

Where to camp/get stuff: We suggest Hootentown Canoe Rental (1254 Hooten Town Road, Crane; 417-369-2266). You can rent canoes for $27.50 per person, which includes all the gear you’ll need, shuttle service and camping. Hootentown covers 47 miles of the James River, all the way from Nixa to Galena, so you can float whatever portion you like; they’ll either drop you off and let you float down to Hootentown, or pick you up farther downriver. Even if you’re not camping, or if you have your own canoe, you can park at Hootentown and hitch a ride to your put-in point (they’ll even haul your canoe) for $5–10. Camping is $5 per tent, and some spots have electricity hookups. Alcohol is allowed (no drugs or underage drinking, Newman says.) The Hootentown grounds also include a general store (The Watering Hole) and restaurant (Smokin’ on the River.)

How to get there: The James River flows right through south Springfield, but you don’t want to put in there. Hootentown is only 20 miles away. Take Highway 160 south through Nixa and Highlandville, then turn west on Highway O before you get to Spokane.

Get there!   • Springfield to Hooten Town Canoe Rental