Two-minute review: J.Buck’s

Make your taste buds say 'Slam-a-lam-a-ding-dong!'

Baseball fanboys were salivating last summer when it was announced that J.Buck’s Restaurant—a St. Louis-based chain celebrating Jack Buck, the late St. Louis Cardinals broadcaster, and his radio-rific family—was coming to Springfield. Turns out they were salivating for the wrong reasons. If you want a sports-soaked meal, stick with Ebbets Field. J.Buck’s (2825 S. Glenstone Ave., 417-823-7167) is all about the food and a chain-classy atmosphere.

Both times I’ve eaten at J.Buck’s, I’ve been struck by the big-city feel to the place. Local restauranteurs who think flat paint and two-watt bulbs will make their joints feel more luxurious should take note of J.Buck’s use of good lighting, wood surfaces and high ceilings. Of course J.Buck’s has a lot of big-city experience and money behind it—but if you think it’s the last such chain to come to Springfield, you’re in denial. This is the future of south Springfield dining.

Fortunately, the food is good enough to back up such a claim. While probably not of Argentina Steakhouse quality, the steaks are definitely worth the premium prices ($21.99 for the 14 oz. rib-eye) if you want a tasty cut of meat, and the side dishes are big-city-steakhouse rich. We particularly enjoyed the lunch menu; on a recent Saturday I ordered the BLTC, which is a standard BLT, but with better bacon, a very fresh chicken breast and bleu cheese, for $8.99. It was one of the best sandwiches I’ve had in Springfield. My wife ordered the margherita pizza, with fresh slices of tomato, tons of mozzarella and basil ($9.99) and a huge $2 side salad. She only ate three slices of the pizza before becoming full. At $32 (including tip, no alcohol) it was a little pricey for lunch, but we didn’t feel cheated, and the service was outstanding.

Finally, we heartily recommend the J. Buck’s bar, which is developing a reputation as one of the south side’s best happy hour hangouts.