2-Minute Review: Grandaddy's

Downtown's first laid-back barbecue joint is finally here, and it's tasty.

THE PLACE: Maybe I’m becoming an old curmudgeon, but with all the fusion-ing going on, it was nice to eat at this simple, low-maintenance new barbecue joint on South Jefferson Avenue (next to Quizno’s in Wilhoit Plaza).

Grandaddy’s is lo-fi. The décor is minimalist, though it looks like they’re still hanging some artwork, with simple tables, booths and a nice little bar in the second of the two seating areas (sit there if you have a choice).

THE MENU: Grandaddy’s menu is limited, but then, you know what you’re going to get at any good barbecue joint. Pork, chicken, beef, ribs, piled high on a plate, bun or Texas toast. The sides are also the usual barbeque fare—beans, slaw, fries, etc.

THE FOOD: I won’t say my “jumbo” pork sandwich ($6.49) was the best I’ve ever had, but it wasn’t far off. The pork literally melted in my mouth and the Texas toast was perfect (I recommend eating the sandwiches open-face with a fork, dipping meat and toast in the dish of tangy barbecue sauce). My wife’s regular-size chicken sandwich ($6.95) was tender and amazing—no need to leave non-red meat eaters behind. I thought my baked beans were tasty if a bit run-of-the-mill, but Nichole raved over her cole slaw. I tasted it, and it was fresh and delicious, and I don’t like cole slaw. Sweet teas and Pepsi rounded out a $20 lunch that took only 20 minutes, from seating to tab out.

THE SCORE: I give Grandaddy’s a solid A-. Beyond the simplicity (snobs will say it’s drab, but I liked it), I appreciated the friendliness of the staff, and the fact that they all were working their butts off (yet another lost art at casual restaurants). My only complaints were superficial: One, name style. Is it Grandaddy’s Barbeque or Grandaddy’s Que & More? I saw it both ways on signage. Also, they could stand to turn the music down a bit. Hell, maybe I am getting old.