Two-Minute Review: Mijuri

"This place used to be a Dunkin' Donuts, for chrissakes!"

It's a weird line with which to kick off a meal, but it's what was running through my head as I was enthusiastically greeted and shown to my seat at Mijuri Sushi & Rhythm (2710 S. Campbell Ave., 417-889-9593). The reason for my exclamation was this: the clean-lined décor in no way resembles a donut shop-or even Barone's, the Italian joint that used to occupy the space.

But while decorations are nice, it was the food we'd come to try. Is this restaurant, open since mid-November, good enough to survive a sushi-flooded market in a traditionally killer location (just north of Andy's Frozen Custard)? Let's say Mi-jury's still out. But our first taste was very promising.

The prices are along the lines of newer sushi joints like Umi, without reaching the levels (or quite the quality) of Haruno. One appetizer, a steak and shitake mushroom skewer, was interesting (To quote my dining companion: "Beef and mushroom-the new chips and salsa?"). The nigiri were tasty with a nice firmness, though we would have liked a bit more flavor.

The entrée rolls-eight huge pieces for $8-$12, depending on the stuffin's-were delicious. My choice, the Ping Pong Girl Roll ($9.95), contained tuna, salmon, yellowtail and masago wrapped in pink seaweed. It tasted very fresh, though I found myself staring longingly at Chris's Tyson Roll, which is a chicken tempura, crab and cream cheese roll covered in a zippy sauce ($10.95). We highly suggest this one.

So that's the sushi, but what about the "& Rhythm"? On Friday and Saturday nights, Mijuri features nanta drummers at and behind the sushi bar. Mijuri is open late and has a full bar, so it's status as a night spot may just exceed its lunchtime reputation.