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Print this pageReview: Lili's Diner
For years downtown regulars have bemoaned the lack of a late-night diner, which is why we were so happy when Lili’s Diner (431 S. Jefferson Ave., 417-873-9311) came on the scene. Open since December in Wilhoit Plaza, Lili’s is a no-frills diner that stays open until 3 a.m., serves breakfast 24 hours a day, and gives restaurant goers a place to sit and enjoy a late-night meal without being barked through a sandwich line.
But is it worth your dollar (even a late-night, drunken dollar)? I recently visited Lili’s for lunch, along with friend Chris DeRosier, to test the food while my taste buds are actually working.
The Place
Lili’s minimal decor bothers us less in the larger south dining room than the small one. Not sure why. The walls are a goldish color, the booths red. The entire east wall, facing Jefferson, is glass, so there’s plenty of natural light and people-watching. Vintage photos grace the walls. We’re curious to see if the look of the place changes as Lili’s matures.
The Service
We can honestly say we had no gripes, though the larger dining room was fairly busy. Our drinks were brought swiftly, and when our waitress said she’d give us another minute to consider our order, she actually meant another minute instead of forgetting about us like many servers do.
The Food
Like most good diners, Lili’s menu requires a Surgeon General’s warning. This is not a knock… if you’re eating bacon and or burgers, you should know what you’re getting.
Because breakfast is a Lili’s selling point, Chris—in all his international savvy—ordered the Huevos a la Mexicana, an omelet with green peppers and tomatoes served with three soft tortillas, beans and rice ($5.49). Chris called it a “plata forte”, Spanish for “stout breakfast”. We guess so. Chris liked the freshness of the omelet—juicy peppers and tomato made the egg soft and tasty. He said the tortillas were “standard,” and a bit crispy around the edges. He also said he could have used one more tortilla, but didn’t ask. Judging by the cleanliness of his plate, he liked it.
I went the lunch route and decided to build my own burger ($5.99 for two toppings, .59 cents per additional topping). I don’t know if I was being daring or stupid, but I ordered two kinds of cheese—pepper Jack and bleu crumbles—along with bacon. The bleu crumbles were not what I expected, just two or three large chunks of cheese. I removed them from the burger, which was the right move; I got the essence without a glob of bleu. The pepper Jack was outstanding. As might be befitting a breakfast place, the bacon was hands down the crispiest, tastiest I’ve ever had on a burger. I was very pleased with the freshness overall, though it wasn’t the biggest burger I’ve had (not necessarily bad). I was disappointed that the chips were just a fun-size bag of Lays, but that didn’t stop me from eating them. Our waitress offered to refill my Pepsi at least three times.
When I go back, I’ll definitely try breakfast—probably the Country Boy ($3.99) with the traditional eggs, bacon, biscuits and gravy. I might also have alcohol in my system, though it certainly won’t be necessary to enjoy the experience.
