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2-Minute Review: Whole Hog Café

2-Minute Review: Whole Hog Café
Photo by Kevin O'Riley
Mmm... pulled pork.

Barbecue freaks are a strange bunch. For some reason, no category of food inspires so much passion among its fan base. Which is why it’s so remarkable that Whole Hog Café (220 W. Sunshine St., 417-868-8476),the newest spoke in the Paul Sundy food-and-drink wheel of dominance, has become such a hit so quickly. Actually, it shouldn’t be a surprise; Whole Hog is a championship caliber chain, which Paul scouted long and hard before bringing it to Springfield. Barbecue types we trust say it’s the best in town, which is something considering the ubiquity of Buckingham’s and the popularity of Crosstown, Bandana’s and others.

In two visits to Whole Hog, I can’t argue with those who say it’s the best. Every meat I’ve tried was tender and delicious—particularly the chicken and pork. The chicken may be the best offering, especially for those who aren’t big fans of richer meats. It’s offered roasted or pulled (off-bone), in plate or sandwich form. My wife was an instant fan.

The special bit at Whole Hog is the six-pack caddy of sauce at each table. The flavors are numbered and each is unique, from a thick, molasses-y sauce (No. 5) to a traditional one (No. 2). My favorite was No. 6, a mustard-based sauce. If you want the “Volcano” super-spicy sauce, you’ll have to ask for it.

Ambience-wise, Whole Hog is minimal. There’s not a lot on the walls, but it’s well lit and seating is plentiful. I’d like to see a TV or two in the bar-like area (beer is served by the bottle), but I wouldn’t change much. And the food I wouldn’t change at all.

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September 2010

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