Two-Minute Review: Peabody's

Commercial Street's newest restaurant has a delightful big-city feel.

On Commercial Street, not far from the thrift stores and refurbed lofts, there’s a cute little gem with great food and laid-back atmosphere that’s a cozy respite from the street’s winter winds. I went to Peabody’s (312 E. Commercial St., 417-832-8585) mid-day with GO art director Kari Engel, and the place had a healthy crowd of leisurely lunchers and even a musician playing subtle, elegant tunes on the piano. Peabody’s reminded me of the cute, tiny restaurants I’d eat at in New York City, where the ambiance was a complete 180 from the street.

We started with the coconut shrimp appetizer, which was crispy and sweet. As good as my main dish was, this was my favorite part of the meal. The coconut flavor was strong; it reminded me of dining out in Florida. Kari ordered chicken pesto pasta, which came with the most buttery garlic bread I’ve ever seen. I had the Rueben, which didn’t remind me of New York as much as the décor did (wishful thinking). It was delicious, however, piled high with plenty of tart sour kraut but not too much dressing. The fries were thick-cut (my favorite kind) but came to us a little cold. I didn’t say anything about it, but I’m sure if I had, I’d have been accommodated in some way. Everyone who worked there was super-nice and eager-to-please, and at least four people said goodbye to use and wished us a great day on our way out the door.

Go to Peabody’s before the Christmas season is over, because the décor is adorable. There’s a full-sized decked-out Christmas tree next to the piano, and the whole place just feels cozy, with exposed brick on the walls that are painted warm colors. There’s even a lofted private room upstairs, where diners can look down on the restaurant.