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Print this page2-Minute Review: Pizza House
For these reviews we typically showcase and give our thoughts on a new restaurant. Pizza House is anything but new. But after 50 years at its Bennett-and-Glenstone location, it has made its move to Commercial Street. We thought such a momentous move called for our thoughts.
The Place: This is what we came to see—a menu as long-running as Pizza House’s doesn’t need much changing. The old Peabody’s space (312 E. Commercial St.) is narrow and long, with a counter running along the right hand wall and booths and tables pretty much everywhere else. In truth, it’s much better suited to a pizza parlor than to a traditional restaurant. The walls are warm, the seating comfortable. Pizza House brought some of its vintage décor items from the old place, but wisely didn’t bring all of it. The effect is open, interesting and clean—it’s fun to watch your pizza get baked. On a recent Friday the place was packed with a slightly older crowd that we assume followed from the old location, which is a very good sign, particularly on yet-to-take-off C-Street.
The Service: What can we say? Most of the servers were obvious veterans; quick, efficient and pleasant. Best sign yet: A week earlier we had ordered a pie by phone (417-881-4073) and carried it out, and the pizza was ready in 20 minutes and perfect. Good stuff in a neighborhood it takes Dominoes 30 minutes to reach.
The Food: Wafer-thin crust with any combination of toppings imaginable. A single-topping lunch combo, with a drink, is only $7.50. A combo for two, including salads and a larger pie, is only $13.50. The pizza isn’t too filling, either.
The Verdict: Pizza House is a classic for a reason, and seems primed to thrive no matter where it moves. Best-case scenario: It remains a classic while bringing even more traffic to C-Street.
