2-Minute Review: Kyoto

Tasty, affordable Japanese on the north side.

With all the hand-wringing over protocols and whatnot, Kyoto (853 N. Glenstone Ave., 417-869-1628) might seem like a strange name for a restaurant. It is. Fortunately, Kyoto Japanese Grill delivers all the staples of casual local Japanese dining: fresh sushi, reasonable prices and a nice atmosphere.\

The Place: Kyoto is located in a building that used to house a Shoney’s, and more recently a Ziggie’s. Fortunately, you wouldn’t know it. The outside has a nice structure, complete with twin stone lions guarding the entrance, and the inside has been revamped with a pleasant if not stunning motif. Kyoto’s staff was friendly and accurate if not terribly swift; the restaurant was maybe half filled for our Sunday afternoon visit, but it took a while to place our order. Still, the experience was satisfactory.

The Menu: Kyoto’s menu is standard—the usual Japanese mixture of sushi (you’ll recognize some of the roll names, we suspect), teriyaki and hibachi offerings that most closely mirror those at Umi and Mijuri on the south side. All the appetizer staples are there, too, like fried calamari, edamame and spring rolls.

The Food: In a word, fantastic. The marquee out front touted a $6.95 chicken teriyaki dinner complete with chicken, noodles, stir-fried vegetables and fried rice. That’s what my wife had (she loved the noodles) while I opted for the same dinner, except with a tender hibachi salmon instead of chicken ($8.95). To start, we ordered a Philly roll, which was delicious though a bit pricey for five largish rolls ($7.95). Complimentary salads and two weak iced teas rounded out the $28 meal (before tip).

The Verdict: Kyoto doesn’t break any new ground in the Springfield Japanese cuisine market, but it does bring the staples of the best in casual sushi and hibachi joints to north Springfield. Even George W. Bush can’t say no to that.